Nordend

Nordend, 4609m is the third highest mountain in the Alps after Mont Blanc and Dufourspitze. It is the most northern of all Monte Rosa peaks and is located on the Swiss Italian border. For an overview of the whole massif see Monte Rosa.

Taking the normal route from the Monte Rosa hut, it is not difficult, but you have to be strong and accustomed to the altitude. Excellent weather is a must. It will take you from 6 to 10 hours to climb depending on the condition of the snow and your body.. The Monte Rosa glacier shows many crevasses, but these are not as mean as in the neighboring Grenzgletscher.

Take with you rope, crampons, ax. If you do it on skis from March to July you may be able to leave these items in your rucksack. An interesting but difficult variation is the Cresta di Santa Caterina from the Gallarate bivouac (3969 m) on top of Jaegerhorn (see route).

The tour to the Nordend gives you an excellent view on the many possibilities to climb the nearby Dufourspitze, the highest Swiss mountain.
From Monte Rosa hut (2795 m), described in "Monte Rosa Hut", take the tracks of the Monte Rosa Glacier that lead to the Dufourspitze. At ca. 4000 m you will not turn to right, but keep going in direction of Nordend and head for Silbersattel, which is a saddle between Nordend and Dufourspitze. The Silbersattel greets you with several bergschrunds. First head more to the left to the Nordend, then change your direction to the right (south east) and look for a safe way between the parallel crevasses. From far it looks worse than it is. A well trained mountaineer reaches the Silbersattel (4517m) in 5 hours.
From here take the north ridge that is covered with snow. Stay away from the Italian side (cornice!). The ridge is normally easy and if you climb Nordend with skis (recommended) you can keep them on as far as the rocks at the end of the ridge. At the end of a dry summer the ridge is icy and can be time consuming.

Curabitur tincidunt

Pellentesque lobortis cursus orci, quis consequat sem condimentum et. Donec eu elit in nunc iaculis iaculis.

Donec eu elit in nunc

Pellentesque lobortis cursus orci, quis consequat sem condimentum et. Donec eu elit in nunc iaculis iaculis.

Sed leo lacus, malesuada

Pellentesque lobortis cursus orci, quis consequat sem condimentum et. Donec eu elit in nunc iaculis iaculis.